London
Nestled in the heart of Marylebone, Kol restaurant stands as a vibrant testament to the culinary genius of Chef Santiago Lastra, a visionary Mexican chef who has redefined the way Londoners perceive authentic Mexican cuisine. Launched in late 2020, Kol marries the rich traditions of Mexican cooking with a commitment to sourcing predominantly UK ingredients, resulting in an innovative approach that is as refreshing as it is delicious.
Born in Mexico, Lastra honed his culinary skills across Europe, with notable tenures at acclaimed establishments like Mugaritz. However, it was his role in orchestrating the renowned Noma’s Mexico pop-up in Tulum in 2016 that proved to be a pivotal moment in his career. The success of this venture not only established him as a formidable talent but also attracted the attention of investors who helped him realize his dream of opening a restaurant that celebrates the vibrant flavors of Mexico, crafted with local produce from the UK.
Lastra’s journey hasn’t been without its challenges, particularly in sourcing the ingredients necessary for his menus. Traditional staples of Mexican cuisine—such as fresh limes and avocados—remain elusive in the UK due to the country’s climate. This has prompted Lastra to embark on extensive research trips throughout Britain, searching for indigenous ingredients that could stand in for their Latin American counterparts. Among his innovative replacements is the use of sea buckthorn to mimic the bright acidity of lime, a testament to his creativity and resourcefulness.
Despite the challenges, Lastra’s commitment to authenticity remains unwavering. While the restaurant has adapted certain elements to suit local conditions, the core is built on importing true Mexican essentials like corn for the tortillas, chocolate, and native chillies. This careful curation of ingredients allows Kol to remain authentic in flavor while still celebrating the regional richness of the UK.
A visit to Kol is a sensory journey. The restaurant’s elegant design reflects a modern take on Mexican culture, creating an inviting atmosphere that is both sophisticated and warm. The highlight of the experience is undoubtedly the ever-evolving tasting menu, which features a range of exquisite dishes that showcase Lastra’s culinary philosophy.
One of the standout dishes that has remained a staple since the restaurant’s launch is the langoustine taco. This dish exemplifies Lastra’s innovative spirit, arriving pre-assembled with the crustacean head served separately. Diners are encouraged to squeeze the head onto the taco, adding layers of umami that elevate the dish to new heights. The taco, a quintessential Mexican staple, is transformed in Lastra’s hands, showcasing the depth of flavor achievable with high-quality, locally sourced ingredients.
Another seasonal highlight is the lamb saddle, complemented by rye koji and presented atop rich mulato mole, a deep and complex sauce that draws on traditional Mexican flavors. Such dishes not only reflect Lastra’s background but also demonstrate his ability to seamlessly integrate British produce into his creations, offering a unique dining experience that sets Kol apart from other establishments in London.
The culinary adventure does not end with the food. Kol boasts a subterranean bar, the Mezcaleria, that is reputed to house one of the finest collections of agave spirits in the UK. This bar offers an extensive selection of mezcal and tequila, with cocktails that pay homage to Mexican heritage. Just like in the dining area above, the quality of the drinks is held in the same high regard, providing a perfect complement to the bold flavors of the cuisine.
For those seeking a more casual experience, Lastra expanded his culinary empire with the launch of Fonda in 2024 on nearby Heddon Street. This vibrant taco joint celebrates the laid-back spirit of Mexican street food, serving up an array of tacos and tequila in a relaxed, inviting environment. Fonda embodies Lastra’s dedication to making Mexican cuisine accessible to everyone, ensuring it can be enjoyed in various settings, whether it’s a fine dining experience at Kol or a quick bite at Fonda.
Lastra’s vision for Kol and his new venture, Fonda, is not just about food; it’s a movement to showcase the complexities and rich traditions of Mexican cuisine while honoring the local produce of the UK. In an ever-evolving culinary landscape, Lastra continues to lead with passion and innovation, ensuring that every plate tells a story and every dining experience is unforgettable.
As Kol has emerged as one of London’s hottest dining destinations in the boom of the post-pandemic restaurant renaissance, it stands as a beacon for future culinary explorations that blend tradition with modernity. Chef Santiago Lastra’s journey is a remarkable one, rooted in his respect for culinary heritage, and his commitment to sustainability and creativity cements his status as one of the leading figures in today’s culinary scene. Whether embarking on a tasting journey at Kol or enjoying casual bites at Fonda, patrons are invited to partake in the rich tapestry of flavors that define this extraordinary chapter in Mexican culinary history.
Add comment