Rubano
In the heart of Italy, where culinary artistry meets generational legacy, Le Calandre stands as a testament to the innovative spirit of its chefs and the rich historical fabric of Italian cuisine. To dine at Le Calandre is not merely to enjoy a meal; it is to embark on a multi-sensory journey that intertwines taste, art, and a commitment to the finest ingredients.
The restaurant, which has been under the care of brothers Max and Raf Alajmo since 1994, has evolved into one of the cornerstones of Italian gastronomy. They took on the mantle from their parents’ modest restaurant, building it into an institution of culinary excellence. Today, the Alajmo Group comprises 12 distinct dining venues across three countries, but Le Calandre remains the flagship, a shining beacon of what modern Italian cooking can achieve.
Entering Le Calandre is an experience in itself, one that sets the stage for an evening of gastronomic discovery. The design of the dining room is a fusion of sleek sophistication and earthy elegance, enhanced by the soft glow of sculptural lighting designed by Davide Groppi. The ambiance is both intimate and inviting, a setting where the food is destined to be the star of the show. Each table, carved from a magnificent 300-year-old ash tree, presents itself as a canvas, free from the distractions of tablecloths. Here, the table is not just a surface; it is the platform for Massimiliano Alajmo’s culinary artwork.
Every meal at Le Calandre is a performance, one inextricably tied to the changing seasons and the unrelenting creativity of Chef Massimiliano. His drive to innovate shines through in each of the three tasting menus, all tailored to highlight the freshest produce and inspired by a deep appreciation for art. Each dish tells a story, transporting diners to a realm where flavor and artistry converge.
One such dish that has garnered significant acclaim is the innovative Cuttlefish Cappuccino, which has evolved since its inception in the late 1990s. Recently reimagined as Cappuccino Murrina, this dish pays homage to Venice’s renowned glass-blowing heritage. It features creamy potato and chive blended with cuttlefish and sea urchin, artfully finished with vivid beetroot and spirulina. It’s a feast for the eyes as much as for the palate, harmonizing flavors and textures in a way that stirs not only the taste buds but the imagination.
Another standout creation is the Risotto Passi d’Oro, an exquisite homage to the sculptor Roberto Barni, whose work can be found at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. The dish’s golden hue, derived from saffron, harmonizes beautifully with the boldness imparted by black liquorice. Much like the visual contrasts in Barni’s sculptures, this risotto presents a captivating interplay of flavors that challenge and delight the senses.
Dessert at Le Calandre is where the experience takes an even more playful turn. Chef Massimiliano demonstrates a keen sense of humor and precision as he elevates the final chapter of the meal. One might encounter a modern twist on the classic Sicilian cassata accompanied by earplugs—an unusual yet fascinating sensory experiment. This unexpected pairing plunges diners into a world where crunch meets flavor, adding a unique auditory element to the tasting experience.
Another whimsical creation is a shiny mozzarella ball, which, at first glance, appears to be a simple cheese ball but is actually a delicate glass-like shell made from a mix of egg whites, honey, and sugar. Inside, diners are surprised to find a fluffy almond foam that melts in your mouth, offering a texture contrast that leaves a lasting impression long after the meal has concluded.
Le Calandre is not just a restaurant; it is a celebration of Italian culinary history, a manifestation of creativity, and a commitment to excellence. It’s a place where every meal is transformed into an art form, where chefs are not only thinkers but also visionaries who passionately reinterpret tradition. The dining experience is not just about satisfying hunger but igniting or rekindling a love for food and art.
As one leaves Le Calandre, it’s essential to reflect on the journey taken through each carefully curated course. Diners walk away not merely filled but enriched, carrying with them memories of a culinary adventure marked by innovation, artistic expression, and profound respect for the ingredients sourced from the earth. In a world where dining experiences often become routine, Le Calandre breaks away from the mundane, delivering an exceptional encounter that lingers long in the memory.
For those fortunate enough to secure a reservation at Le Calandre, prepare to engage with the essence of Italian gastronomy—the flavors, the artistry, and the warmth of a family legacy that continues to redefine the notion of dining. It truly is a place where history and modernity collide in the most delicious way possible.
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